Our
Akram-arranged 2018-Innova zoomed past at 120 kpmh with the silk-smooth Siriyoor
route providing the vehicle the right impetus, disregarding the host of
monstrous trucks plying alongside with Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, or Haryana
registrations carrying goods from one State to the other.
My
friend Ragu had painstakingly compiled a new collection of songs. We began with
the customary Maha Ganapathe by
Maharajapuram Santhanam, and then paid tributes to Kadri Gopinath by tuning his
soothing music on saxophone before switching over to an assortment of songs
ranging from old Tamil, Hindi film songs, instrumental music, Carnatic vocal
and instrumental, skits…
As
soon as Innova reached the outskirts of Hampi, it slowed down at the sight of
battalion of police force, and preparations for a facelift to the city. I
re-checked my credentials if my status has changed from a common man. “No; then
why so much of commotion to welcome us?”
Far
from it. The city was gearing up to celebrate Hampi Utsav-2020 the next two
days -10 and 11 January. Just our visit synchronized with it. We had in fact deliberately
planned to visit either before or after the Utsav (earlier scheduled for 27 and
28 Feb), just to avoid being thrown around in the melee. But here we are part
of what we were avoiding; and enjoying it too.
Hampi
was the capital of Krishnadevaraya’s flourishing Vijayanagara Empire, which he
ruled for 21 years in the early 16th century. So short a span? Yes,
he was so heartbroken at his son’s death of snakebite, that he abdicated his
kingdom, crowned his brother as king, and settled down quietly in a village now
in Kurnool district, in pursuit of inner peace.
Every
monument in Hampi bears the stamp of Hindu, Islamic or Jain architecture - be
the queens’ palaces, the elephants’ place, or other structures. The massive deities
(since defaced) of Narasimha, Peanut Ganesha, Mustard Ganesha, were all made of
single stones. The life-like Nandi guarding his Lord at a temple at Pattadakkal
is huge, next only to his counterpart in Tanjore. The king thus promoted art,
architecture and culture alongside benevolent administration. By the way we
didn’t miss the abode of Tenali Rama. The public is not allowed access to the musical
mantap in a temple. To test the sound, visitors were hitting the pillars with
stones and spoiling the structure. The presiding deity at the Vittala temple was
removed before invaders could deface it, and taken to Pune where He is
worshipped now.
This
place was Kishkinda in the Ramayana period. “Over there,” said Sivaram, our
multi-linguist Guide, pointing at a mountain, “was where Vali lived, and on the
mountain next Sugreeva. Ragu and Aunty ventured to climb the 550-odd steps to
the top of the mountain, the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. ‘These mountains are
far from one another. How could regular meetings take place?” we asked Sivaram.
“Sir, they are vaanaras; they would
just take long jumps and reach in no time.” We visited Sabari Ashram too where
she waited for Lord Rama’s darshan with lots of tasted berry fruits.
The
local authorities had organized several cultural programmes at different venues
for Hampi Utsav. Our Guide recommended we attend the one to be inaugurated by
Chief Minister Yediyurappa. Playing our senior citizen and Bengalurian cards,
we gained entry into the VIP enclosure. The programme featured eminent local
and namma Bengaluru artists. The
shadow show by a Bangalore boy elicited thunderous applause. The Hindustani
classical-music rendering was soulful. We were able to identify two ragas: one
similar to the old Hindi song, “Jyoti Kalash Chhalke’ sung by Lata Mangeshkar
in Bhabhi ki Chudiyan, and “Darshan do Ghanshyam Nath…” by Hemant Kumar in Narsi
Bhagat.
In
Badami, the four-cave mountain overlooking a lake is indeed picturesque. Some
religious festival was going on. Hence the original Banashankari temple was
extremely crowded, but we did manage to squeeze in and have a peep. And the erstwhile
temples of Aihole speak volumes of architectural splendour. It was a pity to
see the vast defunct Pattabhirama temple turning fast into ruins.
Some
visits fade into oblivion sooner, some manage to stay a while. But I guess this
visit would claim a much longer span.
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