Horanadu, Sringeri, Mookambika, Kollur, Murudeshwara, Udipi, Katil, Manjunatha and Kukke Subramanya Temple tours – Travelogue
Of course there is nothing to beat the Home Sweet Home aura.
But a sneak out once in a while is equally enjoyable – like eating out in a
restaurant.
The five-day trip of Karnataka State Tourism that we availed
of, covering 12 temples (and another 2 as bonus, courtesy the driver-guide
team), was well worth it.
As is my wont, meticulous planning went into the selection
of the dates – 1 to 5 November. Everyone would be exhausted after celebrating
Dusshera. Diwali would be round the corner, and no one would plan any trip in
the interim. The bus would thus be empty and the temples less crowded. In terms
of weather, the South-West monsoon would be on its way out, and North-East is
yet to show up. “The best dates possible,” we prided ourselves.
Unfortunately far too many people thought on similar lines.
Consequently, the bus was full, and the temples were crowded. The weather?
Well, the trip was in the same week when the predicted Sandy hurricane in the
US and Neelam in parts of India were in full blast. Torrential rains, followed
by overcast sky engulfed Bangalore, with daytime choosing to be no brighter
than twilight.
By custom we set aside a small token money tied to a piece
of cloth and pray God to forestall any cancellation of our flight or train.
This time we fervently prayed for
cancellation of the trip. Not only that, to build indirect pressure, we even
repeatedly enquired from KSTDC, in varying voices, if they were calling off the
tour because of the inclement weather. Each time they reassured us that the bus
would leave on time.
Somewhat soaked, all of us got into the bus at night for an
arduous drive through the ghats. But, despite the rains and consequent potholes
and pitfalls en route, the driver made it as less bumpy as possible. When we
reached Horanadu at five next morning, the hurricane-sweep had turned into a
gentle breeze, and the chirping of birds doing their rounds a little ahead of
time, as though to welcome us to the abode. We had a good darshan of Goddess Annapoorneswari
and, no less, a mass-catering breakfast by the temple authorities - Avalakki and coffee.
Till now each passenger was confined to his nucleus group.
But commuting the distance from bus to the shoe stand and to the temple, having
darshan and breakfast together, stealing time to do small shopping before
boarding the bus for the next destination, the fragmented groups of 2s, 5s and
8s, converged into one small well-knit family of 32.
Fortified with Avalakki, heaped a little too liberally on each
plate, and coffee, we briefly stopped over at Kalaseshwara temple, of Lord
Shiva before setting out on a long-haul mountainous drive to Sringeri. The
scenic beauty and the bountiful Nature was a visual feast to the eyes as we
managed to stay awake despite a heavy breakfast, the all-too-inducing swinging
motion of the vehicle, and the far too many aborted attempts the previous night
in the push-back seat for a wink of sleep.
That, centuries ago Adi Sankaracharya walked all the way to
this difficult terrain to build a Mutt and spread the Sanata Dharma teachings,
seemed incredible when these days we wave for an auto to go to the Shiva-Vishnu
temple in Anand Nagar, less than a furlong.
We partook the mass-feeding lunch of the Mutt before we
headed for the Mookambika temple, another long drive. On arrival in the evening
we checked into our respective rooms and, after freshening up, we walked to the
temple. It is in this stretch that each time different members moved together
in groups and got to know more of each other – someone’s all three sons are
married, two settled in Chicago and one in Hyderabad, still to earn the
‘grandparent’ status, and the like.
It being a Friday the Mookambika temple was crowded, as
would be any Devi temple. We waited for our turn, had darshan in a reasonably
good measure, although, as usual, one would have preferred to stay in front
longer than at least the guy in front and back – a natural instinct.
We stayed in Kollur for the night. It was here that, for the
first time, the word ‘average’ passed through the mind as we checked in. Before
allotting the rooms at random the Guide announced that half of the rooms were
fitted with ‘Indian’ and the other “Western” toilets. The obvious preference nowadays to the latter, the prime
concern of everyone was to rush to the toilet to see what was in store for him
– some heaved a sigh of relief, and others were heard saying, “Doesn’t matter, we
will manage”. Yes, adjustment is the name of the game on such non-exclusive
trips.
The next morning was headed for Murudeshwara, Lord Shiva
being the presiding deity. The magnificent gopuram,
the monumental statues on the hillock and the Arabian Sea by the side are
simply breathtaking. One can go up to the top of the gopuram by lift to have a
panoramic view of the sea.
Next was darshan of Lord Ganesha at Anegudde before we rode
to Udupi, the abode of Lord Krishna. We were fortunate enough to get darshan in
about half an hour before we joined the mass lunch by the temple authorities.
Too much of anything is bad, they say. So, shedding the
religious tinge for a while, we were taken for a pleasure trip to the Malpe
Beach. It is here that a few of our passengers displayed their negotiating
ability with the well organized boatmen to bring down their fee for a ride to
the nearest sort of ‘island’ and back. Some preferred to play around on the
beach soaking their legs, others having a go at the tender coconut, and yet
others some ice creams from the only shop on the seashore.
Time, once again, for the next temple – Durga Parameshwari
at Katil. Slight showers welcomed our arrival. It was a blessing in disguise.
We were able to have a very good darshan here, being able to stay right in
front for minutes together – what we were denied at most other places. We stayed through the closing ceremony,
and headed for the mass dinner – again by the temple authorities. Before
retiring to bed, everyone thanked KSTDC for accommodating them in one of their
own starred hotels. It was very nice.
On day four, we were taken to Kadri Manjunatha temple. (Yes,
we were told that the famous Saxaphone player Kadri Gopinath hails from here).
Then to Mangala Devi temple before a long drive to Dharmasthala, the abode of
Lord Manjunatha. We had to wait here for the longest period for darshan, and got
it for split seconds. Not a satisfactory darshan for a last day, we told
ourselves, before joining the mass lunch again. On return from lunch, we were
surprised to find that there were literally no one for darshan, and we were
allowed inside. All of us rushed in, stood in front for as much time as one
wished, before rushing to board the bus in time.
After a few hours of respite, we got ready to visit what was
to be the last on the agenda – Kukke Subramanya temple. After darshan we were
to have dinner in the temple and commence our return journey to Bangalore.
Everybody would be too tired and keen to have a nap before reaching Bangalore
early next morning.
So it fell upon me to bell the cat to appeal to the
passengers for a liberal tip, to express our gratitude to the KSTDC team - the
driver, guide, and the handyman. After requesting the Guide to spare his
microphone I positioned myself as though to address a gathering of ten
thousand, and requested the Driver to switch off the engine, to be heard. I
reminded the passengers that we owed a lot to driver for negotiating his way
through the ghat when it rained in torrents on the first night, to the Guide
for highlighting the importance of each place that we were visiting, and for
his patience to let us maintain our own punctuality at
each boarding point, and, no less, to the Handyman for the stool that he
religiously kept after the last footboard to ensure a safe landing. Also, to the
three for taking us to the extra temples, and for an unscheduled stop by the
Netravati river to cool our heels and freshen up. The response was good; we
collected a good sum, and the trio seemed happy.
We arrived in Bangalore at 5.30 morning on day five. The
team greeted everyone at the exit point, and when it was my turn, the Guide
whispered into my ears, “When shall we see you next, Sir?” “God willing, we
shall,” I reassured him.
V.V.
Sundaram
22 November
2012
